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Wednesday, April 30, 2008

ALHAMBRA 3 AND LAST!

The Courtyard of the Lions, or as I think it was meant, "the Court of the Lions," is the center of that part of the palaces most people think was the most private. Of course this led to lots of romantic speculations about the harem and its princesses, about the kings and even about dreadful conflicts and revenges. On entering, the first impression I got was of a forest of fine columns that almost seem to be hanging from the stalactites of the ceilings rather than supporting them.

Unfortunately, as I mentioned before, the lion fountain at the center of the courtyard is undergoing major renovation. It is literally true that the 12 lions that support the bowl of the fountain are undergoing nose and toes jobs. This restoration effort is described in the museum that is in the Charles V palace with one renewed lion there as a demonstration. Clearly this calls for a return trip when the effort is complete! I wonder if they will also restore the gardens that surrounded the fountain. These are thought to have been sunken into the ground with four raised paths to the fountain. And so, the fountain has been boxed off. No water is flowing, no flowers cool and color the ground, and we tourists are restricted from seeing some of this magnificent place. Nevertheless, there is so much to see that even without something as important as the lions there is enough for many, many visits. Even more important than the specifics of what I saw is the feel of the place which has a clarity, an openness combined with privacy, that is very special and not easy to find in, say, the many churches of Rome.

Just off the courtyard is the Hall of the Two Sisters and the Mirador of Lindaraja. This shot is rather purple (the actual walls are more of a golden sand color) but gives a idea of the sight lines that the symmetries of the architecture provide.








The Mirador of Lindaraja with a view out to the garden. This strange looking shot was taken by holding my camera out over a barrier so that I could see what the remains of the ceiling looks like. Across the way is the Hall of the Abencerrages who feature in a bloody story of family feud. Apparently the family of the Banu al-Sarrya (changed to Abencerrages with retelling) were important people in the court. A rival family convinced the Sultan that the Sultana was having an affair with one of the Abencerrages. The Sultan became very jealous and invited all the men of the family to a "celebration" in this hall. They came and all were promptly killed. The red veins in the marble of the fountain are thought to be unwashable stains from the blood of the murdered men. My version of this story comes from my guide book, THE ALHAMBRA and Granada IN FOCUS. It goes on to explain that the red in the marble is "of course, oxidization in the marble itself."

This hall has a very high ceiling
with a beautiful star shape. The height of the ceiling, the high windows just below it, and the fountain in the center of the floor below all help to keep this room cool in the heat of summer.

If you click on this shot you might be able to see the tiny stalactites that cover its surface. These are called mocarabes.

To quote once more from my favorite guide book:
"According to Muslim tradition the prophet Mahoma received his inspiration for the Koran directly from the archangel Gabriel in the famous cave at Hira, where he had sought refuge while fleeing from his enemies. A spider's web miraculously sealed the entrance to the cave to confuse his pursuers and since then it has been an important place of pilgrimage for all Muslims on their journey to Mecca some 30km away. In celebration of this event stalactites became an essential decorative element, imbued with religious connotations, throughout the world of Islam, a tradition persisting even to this day."
There is, of course, lots more, but I will leave this palace at this point looking up into the heavens. No wonder the Romantics fell in love with the Alhambra!

Next along the route is the Bathhouse which reminded me a lot of ancient Roman baths with its hot, warm, and cool rooms. This shot is of the warm room. Heat was circulated under the floor warming the marble while water ran along a shallow central channel. When the water came into contact with the hot marble, steam rose providing a steam bath of the people on daises at the sides of the room. Mmmm....

Just as some of the greatest of Roman baths had libraries, auditoriums and other places of entertainment, so this bathhouse is said to have a musician's gallery.
This what we need for our bath at home! The story goes that the musicians were blind so that they could not see what was going on below. Clearly an important feature!

Some still bathe at the Alhambra.


Exiting the palaces, you find yourself in more gardens alongside the Tower of the Ladies, called the Partal.
This beautiful portico is completed by its reflection in the pond.






I think I won't blog about the citadel, called the Alcazaba, because I am really back, physically and mentally in Rome. Here is a shot I like to prove I was there: And from the Alcazaba I could easily see my hotel:


Adios for now!
Ciao, ciao, ciao, ciao!
(As a woman on a cell phone on a bus said repeatedly the other day to the great amusement of everyone around her.)


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